Raising chicks in winter or fall? Don’t make this fatal mistake!

February 17, 2021 Bri Wyzard

Can you safely raise chicks in the winter or fall? Absolutely.

BUT, unlike with your spring chicks, you will need to provide a very specific duration of artificial light to your brooder and coop.

If you fail to provide the correct duration of light to your off-season chicks, your female chicks may reproductively mature too rapidly. As a result, they’ll be more susceptible to egg binding and vent prolapse, which are potentially fatal conditions.

In this article, you’ll learn exactly how to calculate the amount of light your off-season chicks will need in order to develop naturally. Follow these instructions to help ensure your young hens don’t suffer from egg binding, prolapse, or a potentially early death due to laying too early.

This post contains affiliate links for my favorite products from Amazon. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.

What months are considered the off-season for raising chicks?

The off-season for raising chicks falls from August through March.

If your chicks are hatched in this time period, you’ll need to provide extra lighting for your chicks (i.e., lighting beyond normal daylight hours).

Note that the off-season includes not just winter and fall months, but the very late summer and very early spring months as well. Although many people have successfully raised healthy chicks in March and August with only natural lighting, Storey’s Guide to Raising Chickens warns that chicks raised in these months are actually at risk as well.

If, on the other hand, your chicks have been hatched sometime between April and July (the on-season), you can raise them in natural light, and save yourself a lot of hassle!

To learn more reasons you may want to raise your chicks in the spring, and to get instructions on how to choose the perfect time, check out my article, When to buy baby chicks: The simple calculation to find which day is best for you.

Why do winter and fall chicks need artificial light?

Why is too-early maturity a problem for off-season chicks, but not for spring chicks?

Because raising chickens in the winter or fall isn’t natural. Chicks naturally hatch in the springtime. They remain reproductively immature until summertime, and then they slowly mature over the summer and fall as the days are getting shorter.

Then, the following spring (and each spring thereafter), the longer days will induce egg-laying in hens. That’s the natural way of things.

But if you raise your chicks in the off-season, your chicks are exposed to the opposite light cycle. They mature reproductively when the days are getting longer, rather than shorter. And as you now know, longer days induce egg-laying. For your off-season chicks, this can accelerate their reproductive maturity, causing them to lay eggs earlier than what’s good for them.

Basically, your girls may start laying when they’re too young. Their reproductive tracts won’t have fully matured when they go into lay. The result can be egg-binding—where your hen produces an egg that’s too large for her to pass through her system, and it gets stuck.

Or, the result can be vent prolapse, where part of your hen’s reproductive tract actually gets pushed out of her vent and is left exposed. And in the worst cases, your hen may suffer from both egg binding and prolapse at the same time—what a nightmare!

You can see what an egg-bound hen looks like in the video below. Fast forward to about 2 minutes and 15 seconds into the video. Warning—the hen does die later in the video. If your egg-bound hen is not able to pass her egg within about 48 hours, she will die.

In this next video, you can see an example of a hen who’s vent has prolapsed. Warning—this video is graphic, but the hen doesn’t seem to be in pain and she is successfully treated (a happy ending!).

Sometimes vent prolapse can be treated successfully as it is in the video above, but if it’s severe, your hen may not survive it.

In this last video below, you can see a hen who is both prolapsed and egg-bound at the same time!

Warning—this video is graphic! The hen does survive the treatment, but in a later video update, the chicken keeper regrettably informs us that the hen suffered prolapse and egg binding again with her next egg—and was subsequently euthanized.

Do all off-season chicks get egg-bound or prolapsed without artificial light?

Your off-season chicks certainly aren’t guaranteed to suffer from egg binding or vent prolapse, but their chances are increased compared to seasonal (springtime) chicks.

And as you can see from the videos above, these conditions can actually affect hens of any age. However, off-season chicks are especially vulnerable.

And that’s why you need to provide artificial lighting. You want to mimic the experience your chicks would have if they were born in the spring or early summer. Basically, you want the light duration to be decreasing each week when your chicks begin maturing reproductively.

What kind of artificial light do your off-season chicks need?

You’ll want to use incandescent light bulbs to light your brooder and coop.

The wattage you need will depend on the size of your coop. For example, if you have a large coop (200 square feet), you’ll want to hang one 60-watt light bulb about 7 feet above the floor.

If your coop is larger than 200 square feet, you’ll need to add more than one lightbulb.

If your coop is smaller, you can use a 40-watt light bulb or even less wattage.

You’ll want to set your light bulb on a timer so you can control the exact duration of light your chickens’ will get at the time they need to get it. You’ll time the light to go on a certain amount of time before daylight hours begin, and you’ll have the timer go off when daylight starts.

To do this correctly, you’ll need to follow the step-by-step instructions provided below.

Why do your chicks need artificial light in the morning, rather than in the evening?

You should turn your artificial lights on in the morning (before daybreak), rather than in the evening (after nightfall).

You don’t want to add the light at the end of the day because your chicks will be extremely upset if their light goes suddenly from bright to darkness. Chickens don’t see well in the dark—they don’t even see as well as we do.

This means that if lights suddenly go out in the brooder, your chicks will be terrified and let out a whole lot of distress calls. And if the lights suddenly go out in the coop, your chickens won’t be able to find their way back into the coop and onto their roosting bars.

Set your light on a timer to come on in the morning instead.

**How to provide the right duration of light for your chicks to develop properly**

I’ve broken down exactly how to calculate the duration of light your chicks will need each week in 9 steps. It may look a little confusing at first, but if you just follow each step one at a time before moving onto the next, it’s really quite simple.

So, get your pen and paper ready, and let’s get started.

Step 1: Choose your chicks’ hatch day.

Remember, artificial light only needs to be added if your chicks have hatched August through March. Otherwise, you may safely raise your chicks in natural light.

As an example, I’m going to choose October 1st as a hatch day for my autumn chicks.

What’s your chicks’ hatch date?

Step 2: Find out how many hours of daylight there are during your chicks’ hatch day.

You can find this information in an almanac—either a physical book, if you have one, or just online.

Here’s how to find it online—type the following in your search engine:

Day length for [your chicks’ hatching date, year] in [your location]

For my circumstances, I searched, “Day length for October 1, 2021 in Idaho.”

You can see in the screenshot below that the first result that came up for me came from timeanddate.com.

I clicked on that entry and scrolled down to find that the website has day-length information for any month or year I could want. I changed the month to “October” and the year to “2021” and clicked “Go.” You can see in the screenshot below that the day length in Idaho on October 1, 2021 is 11 hours and 41 minutes.

I’m going to round this number to 11.5 hours.

What’s the day length for your hatch day at your location?

Step 3: Determine your breeds’ ages of lay (in weeks).

The next thing you want to do is figure out at what age your hens are supposed to lay.

You can find this out by checking the breed pages on your hatchery’s website, or by using your search engine. I also provide egg-laying information for many chicken breeds on my website—you can check to see if your breeds are listed in my chicken breeds database.

If you are having trouble finding your chicken breeds’ ages of lay, you can assume 24 weeks (~6 months). A 24-week age of lay is a safe estimate for most chicken breeds.

Step 4: Determine which day your chicks are expected to lay.

Once you know your chicken breeds’ ages of lay, pick the longest age.

So, for example, let’s say I’ll be ordering both White Leghorn chicks and Wyandotte chicks. I can expect my Leghorn chickens to lay eggs at about 20 weeks old, whereas I can expect my Wyandotte chicks to lay eggs at about 24 weeks old.

So, for this next exercise, I will use 24 weeks. If I were only ordering White Leghorns, I would use 20 weeks.

Now, look at your calendar. Start at your chicks’ hatch date and then count out your chicks’ age of lay in weeks to find which day they’re expected to lay.

In my example, I’ll start with October 1st, 2021 (their hatch date), and I’ll count out 24 weeks. This brings me to March 18, 2022.

So, my chicks’ expected date of first lay is March 18, 2022.

What’s your chicks’ date?

Step 5: Find out how many hours of daylight there are during your chicks’ expected date of first lay.

You’ll follow the same process you did in Step 2, except now you’ll use your chicks’ expected date of first lay (Step 4), rather than their hatch date.

In the screenshot below, you can see that the day length in Idaho for March 18, 2022 is 12 hours and 3 minutes.

I’ll round this number down to 12 hours.

What’s the day length for your expected laying date at your location?

**Step 6: Add 6 hours to the day length you found in Step 5 to calculate how many total hours of light your chicks need starting out.**

So, I found in Step 4 that my expected date of first lay was March 18, 2022. Then I found in Step 5 that this day will have 12 hours of sunlight.

If I add 6 hours to that, I get 18 hours. This is the duration of total light (both natural and artificial) my chicks need each day in their first week of life.

**Step 7: Determine how long you need to provide artificial light for your chicks in their first week of life.**

You will take the hours of light your chicks need (which you found in Step 6), and you’ll subtract the day length of your chicks’ hatch date (which you found in Step 2).

In my example, my chicks need 18 hours of light their first week of life. Their hatch day has a day length of 11.5 hours.

So, here’s my math:

18 hours – 11.5 hours = 6.5 hours

So, I need to add 6 hours and 30 minutes of artificial light onto each day for my chicks’ first week of life.

How much time do you need to add?

Step 8: Determine how much you need to reduce your chicks’ artificial light each week.

Now, you’ll take the number you determined in Step 7 (the duration of artificial light you’ll provide in week 1), and you’ll divide that number by your chicks’ expected age of lay.

So, in my example, I’m providing 6.5 hours of artificial light in week 1, and my chicks’ expected age of lay is 24 weeks. Here’s the division I’ll do:

6.5 hours/24 weeks = 0.27 hours/week

I want to find out what this number is in minutes, so I’ll multiple it by 60.

0.27 hours/week * 60 minutes/hour = 16.2 minutes/week

I’m going to round that down to 16 minutes.

This means I need to reduce my chicks’ exposure to artificial light by 16 minutes each week.

Step 9: Create a simple-to-follow schedule for your chicks’ weekly artificial light duration.

I’ve determined my chicks need 18 hours of light their first week (Step 6), and I’ve determined the chicks’ hatch date has 11.5 hours of light (Step 2). So, for my chicks’ first week of life, I need to add 6 hours and 22 minutes of artificial light onto their day (Step 7).

For week two (and every week thereafter), I need to reduce the artificial light my chicks receive by 16 minutes a week (Step 8).

For my example, you can see what my artificial lighting schedule would look like below:

See this content in the original post

So, when you finally reach your chicks’ expected age of lay, you’ll no longer need to add artificial light—your ladies are safe to lay!

You can see this reflected in my schedule above, where I’ve scheduled in “0 minutes” of artificial light on Week 25.

You can see in my schedule I reduced the artificial light by 16 minutes each week (Step 8). However, if you look back at Step 8, you’ll be reminded that the true number I calculated was 16.2 minutes/week—which I then rounded down to 16 minutes. This is why I don’t reach “0 minutes” until week 25 (rather than week 24).

Depending on how you rounded your number in Step 8, you’ll either reach “0 minutes” of artificial light at your expected date of first lay, or the following week.

Take the time now to make your schedule while everything is fresh on your mind. (Do you really want to have to read this post again?)

What if your chicks still lay early?

If you have provided your chicks with the correct duration of artificial light, and they still lay earlier than their expected date of lay, don’t sweat it. You did everything right, and your chicks just matured faster than you expected.

The age of lay really does vary within breeds and strains, and from each individual to the next. We never really know this date for sure. We can only estimate.